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Mobile home water heaters are designed for manufactured home installations and the requirements that come with them. Look for the HUD certification label when choosing a replacement rather than assuming a standard residential water heater is suitable.
Mobile home water heater closets can have limited space around the tank, door, and ceiling. Our available tanks include models designed for these tighter installations, with different capacities and dimensions to suit different setups.
You may not need to replace the entire water heater when a component fails. Replacement parts such as heating elements and thermostats can help restore an existing unit when the tank itself is still in good condition.
Ships anywhere. Or drive to any of our 7 North Carolina stores in Fayetteville, Erwin, Sanford, Goldsboro, Winston-Salem, and Ramseur. Open Monday through Friday 8 to 5, Saturdays 9 to 1. Call 800-368-6208 with your capacity and voltage first and we will pull it before you head out.
Before ordering a replacement, check the old water heater for its model number, tank size, dimensions and connection locations. Having these details makes it easier to choose a replacement that will fit and connect properly.
The right tank size depends on how much hot water your household uses. A smaller tank may be enough for one or two people, while a larger household may need 40 or 50 gallons to handle several showers close together. If you have limited space, check the tank dimensions as well as the capacity before choosing a size.
The rating plate next to the access panel shows the voltage and wattage you need. It may list something like 120V and 1500 watts or 240V and 3500 watts. Match those ratings when choosing a replacement element. Using an element with a higher wattage than the system is designed for can overload the circuit and cause electrical problems.
Count the access panels on the front of the tank. One panel means one heating element and a single-pole thermostat. Two panels mean two heating elements, with an upper combination thermostat and a lower single-pole thermostat. Check your existing water heater before ordering replacement parts so you get the right combination.
Measure the distance between the water heater connection and the water line coming through the wall. Choose an 18-inch or 24-inch corrugated connector based on that distance. These connectors have a push-fit connection on one end and a threaded connection on the other. The connector should reach both connections without being stretched or forced into place. If you need to change the connection size or type, see our mobile home water line fittings for adapters and other fittings.
In a utility closet. Mobile homes have no basement or garage to hide it in. Look for a louvered door in the hallway, a panel next to the furnace, or an outside access hatch near the kitchen. On older single wides, it is tucked behind a bedroom closet.
Most homes end up with 30 or 40 gallons. A 20 works fine if it is just you, or for a small second bath. Fifty gallons is great if your closet has the height. A mobile home electric water heater is sized by what it holds, so start there.
Depends what is actually wrong. A whole new tank is the big-ticket end. If it turns out to be an element or a thermostat, you are spending small. Live pricing shows in the cart. Not sure which way yours is going? Call 800-368-6208 and tell us what you are seeing.
No, it is not the plumbing that stops you; it is the label. An unlisted tank fails inspection every time. Gas residential models also miss the sealed combustion setup that keeps exhaust out of the living space. Your insurance carrier has a way out if something goes wrong.
Depends on your water. Sediment building up on the tank floor is what usually shortens the life, and hard water builds it faster. Draining a few gallons off the bottom once a year buys you time. Wrapping the exposed lines with pipe insulation does not hurt either.
Kill the breaker before you open anything. Pop the access panel, press the red reset button on the upper thermostat until you feel the click, then flip the breaker on. If it kicks again the next day, that is not nuisance; that is an element or thermostat going out.
