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Big box doors are built for 2x4 or 2x6 framing. Yours aren't. Our manufactured home doors are machined to sit flush without the gaps standard site-built doors leave behind.
Standard doors leak because they're designed for inswing. Our mobile home entry doors are engineered specifically for outswing use, creating a tighter seal against the elements.
Ever spent hours shimming a door? These arrive as factory-aligned, pre-hung units. Fasten it into your rough opening and it operates correctly from the first open and close.
Heavy doors crack manufactured home walls over time. Ours are engineered for lighter frames, providing maximum security and durability without adding unnecessary structural load.
Interior doors are wood panel construction. Exterior entry and storm doors are steel or aluminum with vinyl finishes and pre-drilled hardware points. All sized and framed for manufactured home wall depths and opening dimensions.
Will not warp, rust, or dent through hard weather the way older door materials do. Steel and aluminum door skins hold their shape through years of daily use in any climate without surface degradation.
Cuts heat loss in winter and blocks summer heat from pushing through the door slab. Polyurethane foam cores fill edge to edge without adding unnecessary weight to the wall frame.
Hangs square on the first try. Door, frame, and hinges ship together factory-fitted. Set it in the rough opening, fasten it, and it operates correctly from the first open and close. Nothing to align on site.
Manufactured home walls are shallower than site-built construction at 4 to 4.5 inches deep. Every door frame we carry is machined to those exact dimensions so it seats correctly without gaps or exposed framing.
Required for financing, insurance, and resale of manufactured homes in the United States. Every door we carry meets HUD safety and construction standards. Replacing a door on a HUD-code home? You are covered.
DIY-friendly with basic tools. Most first-time homeowners complete the job in 2.5 to 4 hours with a drill, level, hammer, and caulk gun. Plan half a day so you are not rushed. If the surrounding framing shows rot or soft spots when you pull the old unit, stop and address that before proceeding.
The wrong size, frame, or style means a return, a gap, or a door that never sits flush. These 4 things take 10 minutes to confirm and save you from ordering twice.
Measure the rough opening width and height, not the door slab itself. Take three readings across both dimensions and use the smallest number. Mobile home door openings follow standard manufactured home sizing. Get this right and your replacement drops into the opening without cutting or shimming.
Stand inside your home facing the door. If the hinges are on your left and the door swings toward you, that is a left-hand inswing. Most manufactured home rear doors push outward. Ordering the wrong swing direction is the most common return reason we see. Double check before adding to cart. Not sure how to measure? Our How-To guides walk through door measurement step by step.
Manufactured home exterior walls typically run 4 to 4½ inches deep. Standard site-built door frames are built for 2x4 or 2x6 walls which run deeper. Confirm your wall depth before ordering so the door frame seats flush against both the interior and exterior wall surfaces.
Choose between solid panel doors, doors with window lites, or front combination doors with a built-in storm panel. If ventilation is the priority, a combination door handles both functions in one unit. If security and insulation are the main concern, a solid steel panel door is the better call.
Width and height from frame to frame, not the old door slab. Confirm the opening is square before removing anything. An out-of-square opening needs correction or the new door will never hang plumb.
Remove the existing unit carefully. Inspect the surrounding framing and sill for rot or water damage. Rusted screws and uneven framing are the most common delays here. Budget extra time if the old door has not been replaced before.
Run putty tape around the exterior edge of the opening before setting the new unit. This creates the weather barrier between the door frame and the wall surface. Skipping this step is what lets water work behind manufactured home door frames over time.
Lift the pre-hung unit into position. Check plumb on both hinge and latch sides, then level across the top before driving a single screw. A door set even slightly off plumb will swing on its own and resist latching. Working alone adds time here, a second pair of hands makes this step significantly faster.
Drive number 10 screws, 2.5 inches long, through the frame into solid framing. Do not fasten into drywall only. Run exterior caulk along all edges where the frame meets the exterior wall. This keeps water from tracking behind the frame through seasonal temperature changes.
